Whitework is the name given to white embroidery on a white fabric background. This term is rather broad however, as it encompasses many different types of embroidery, such as Dresden, Schwalm, Ayrshire, Hollie Point, Hardanger, and Mountmellick. Whitework has also been popular (in many different forms) through many periods in history. I am now making my second whitework sampler, and I decided to focus on practising the stitches often used in during the 18th century for Dresden embroidery. Dresden work was the name given to a particular type of whitework performed on thin white muslin during the 18th century. During this period, the popular (and expensive) French and Flemish bobbin lace became more difficult to import to England, which created a need for a cheaper lace imitation. This type of embroidery uses a number of techniques to create the “lacey” effect that was particularly desirable at the time. According to Gail Marsh, Dresden in Saxony was one of the main centres of production for this type of embroidery, hence the name.
Techniques
The stitches that I used in my sampler are pictured below, with links included for further instruction. All of these stitches I have seen in extant examples of whitework viewable online and in books.
Outline stitches
Filling stitches
Shadow work (using herringbone stitch)
“Shaped” stitches (That is, stitches that form their own shape in the embroidery.)
My finished item is approximately the size of a small handkerchief, with a hand-sewn rolled hem on all the raw edges. I created the design myself to imitate some of the more common motifs used in the 18th century. These often included large stylised flowers, normally with pulled work in the petals or centres, and large fronds of ferns or leaves.
My next sampler will be more of a Regency whitework design, which often contains elements of the earlier Dresden embroidery.
Related Posts
Pulled Work Embroidery Sampler: Part One
Sources and Relevant Links
History of whitework 18th Century Embroidery Techniques, by Gail Marsh – buy on Amazon
Types of whitework and techniques – plus a free sampler
Embroidery stitches – by Rocksea & Sarah
Beautiful work. I’m just beginning to learn (first attempt was last evening). So far, it’s been fairly easy to follow along once I get going on any particular stitch, but where to begin is the difficult part. Also, do you use a “waste knot” or some other method of keeping the work tidy at the back?
I have never been taught the “proper” way to do embroidery, so I often used to do it that same as I would do hand sewing (which isnt always successful). For this project I tried the waste knot for the first time and it worked really well, so I am continuing to use it for my next embroidery project. I am learning all new things!! 🙂
Lovely work – hand stitching is so relaxing.
I remember that your mother made a beautiful piece of hardanger many years ago – dark brown thread on creme linen
Really? I don’t think I have ever seen that piece of work! It may even be sitting in a cupboard and doesn’t often get used. I have not tried hardanger before, but it does look pretty.