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Posts Tagged ‘ring backed stitch’

For my previous stitch sampler I focused on practising some of the stitches used in Dresden whitework embroidery. Many of these stitches had been used from before the 18th century and continued to be used during the Regency. So for my next sampler, I decided to focus more on how the Regency embroidery designs had changed.

During the Regency period, embroidery designs became much more delicate and “flowy” than their 18th century predecessors. Some of the common flower, bud, leaf and frond motives had been quite large and bulky, but changed a little in shape to be more delicate. Often the designs were smaller in size and were repeated more frequently in the embroidery sequence, and – as a result – the areas of pulled work embroidered also became smaller during this era. Other Regency designs were still quite large but the flowing and dainty nature of the design made it subtly different to the style used in the 18th century. “Sprigged muslin”, where muslin fabric was embroidered with quite small motives to form a “dotted” design, became very popular. Linear designs also became more popular, probably due to its likeness of Greek and Roman clothing trims which the new model of Regency fashion was based on.

My design has been copied from a needlework pattern from Ackermann’s Repository, the one in the centre below.

A Regency needlework pattern, from Ackermann's Repository (June 1812).

A Regency needlework pattern, from Ackermann’s Repository (June 1812).

Once again used premium cotton muslin and chose a convenient handkerchief-sized piece for my sampler, finished with a handsewn rolled hem. I used many of the same stitches as I used in my previous sampler: chain stitch, satin stitch, eyelets and blanket stitched pinwheels. The pulled stitches I have used here have also been used before in my pulled work sampler.

My finished "handkerchief", ready to throw down so the nearest "redcoat" can pick it up for me.

My finished “handkerchief”, ready to throw down so the nearest “redcoat” can pick it up for me.

The six pulled work areas were worked in the centre of the paisley shapes and were all different: (from top left to bottom right) ring-backed stitch, double backstitch, faggot stitch, honeycomb stitch, spaced wave stitch and four-sided stitch. The pulled work in period examples leaves much larger “holes” in the fabric than I have in this example, so I will have to practice my technique some more.

A close-up of one edge of the embroidery, with the stitches labelled.

A close-up of one edge of the embroidery, with the embroidery stitches labelled.

I am really pleased with how this turned out, and now I am ready to start designing my embroidered fichu!

Related Posts

Pulled Work Sampler: Part One

Dresden Whitework Stitch Sampler

Sources and Relevant Links

Regency needlework designs (1811-1815), from Ackermann’s Repository – at My Fanciful Muse

Pulled work stitches – by Lynxlace

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For the third square in my pulled work embroidery sampler, I really wanted to try out the ring-backed stitch (or ring backstitch), as I had seen it worked in some historical pieces. The ring-backed stitch is basically a backstitch that is worked in a wavy line and then worked back on itself to form a row of rings.

The black dot is where the thread comes to the front of the fabric.

The ring-backed stitch is worked in backstitch, left then right in wavy lines. The black dot is where the thread comes to the front of the fabric. The solid lines represent the thread at the front and the dotted lines the thread on the reverse side. The black lines represent the first part of the row (right to left) and the red lines represent the second part of the row (left to right). The grid represents the thread count of the fabric.

On my sampler I made my “rings” slightly more oval by crossing four threads of the fabric instead of three on the vertical and horizontal sides of each ring.

As before, when you are ready to begin a new row take your embroidery thread from the top of the stitch in one row to the bottom of the stitch in the next (that is, take the longest path between the two stitches), which helps to create an even tension (or pull) on each of the stitches. My finished square looks like this:

This whole square is worked with ring-backed stitch.

This whole square is done with ring-backed stitch, which is worked from side to side.

Because this stitch takes up a larger area, I decided to do the entire square with it. It helps give a better idea of what it looks like once several rows are done together. I really love the way this stitch turned out! It is really pretty and easy to count once you get the hang of it.

Part Four will be coming soon!

Related Posts

Pulled Work Embroidery Sampler: Part One

Making a Pair of Lawn Ruffles – with whitework

A Regency Letter Case

Sources and Relevant Links

Many different Pulled stitches – by Lynxlace

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